Frequently asked questions
60 to 75 threads per inch
Quilt cotton fabric thread count will vary between good quality at 60 to 75 threads per inch to high quality with 200 threads per inch in the length (warp) and width (weft). (info. from thequiltshow.com)
Quilting cottons have come a long way in the last years and are machine wash and dryer friendly. It used to be that prewashing was always recommended at the store. Here is what you should consider. You've bought this beautiful and sometimes pricy fabric. You take it home, put it in the washing machine and when you take it straight out of the dryer it will still need pressing which is consistent to any 100% cotton, but you have lost 2 precious things.
1. The crispness that the new fabric has from the factory. Even though softness is the goal, working with the crisp-feel fabric (because of a treatment called ‘sizing’) helps with pressing your fabric making clean seams and even better, clean points! A quilter’s goal. There is a debate among quilters whether to prewash or not to prewash. I have stopped prewashing and find that my projects still come out lovely even with an overall small *shrinkage. 2. The other thing you lose if prewashing is time. Any quilter can tell you that the joy is in the cutting and sewing and not the prepping.
A rule of thumb: Quilting cotton, made from a reputable manufacturer will shrink 2% in length and width. Lower quality cottons can shrink up to 6%.
Here are the typical washing instructions from the manufacturer's quilting fabric bolts: "Machine wash cold, no bleach, wash dark colours separately, tumble dry low, remove promptly. Not intended for use in children's sleepwear."
*Note: for even shrinkage consider using the same fabric throughout your project.
Quilting has become very popular in the last while with many individuals wanting to make a useful heirloom-quality item for family and friends. Because of this popularity the demand for good quilting cotton has increased enough to be it's own section or in some cases, a complete store. Having the right fabric is critical. Good quilting cotton is a medium-weight cotton and consistent among reputable quilting fabric manufacturers. The medium weight is necessary for durability and the ability to withstand many washings. This detail sets ones quilt up to be practical for everyday use on beds, as lap quilts, as a baby/toddler quilt that gets cuddled over the years and stands the test of time along with retaining a memory of the giver. Usually a keepsake.
Not all ‘quilting’ cottons are created equal when it comes to softness and tightness of weave. I have ordered quilting cottons from other countries and was curious as they were priced much lower than the quilting cottons in Europe and North America. I find that less expensive fabrics have a rougher feel which was not what I was hoping for and not usable for my project. So be aware. Quilting can be an expensive hobby and it is tempting to go with a lower priced item. The only time I go for a lower priced quilting fabric is when it is on sale. <grin>
Quilts may be made of any fabric your heart wants to use. This is how the pioneers made the most of their precious fabrics. When the garment was no longer wearable because of holes etc., the less worn parts of the garments were often recycled into a practical quilt. If you choose to use many kinds of fabrics in your quilts and not just quilting cotton you must be aware of two things.
1. Fabrics shrink at different percentages and if you’ve sewn a fabric that shrinks 15% together with a fabric that only shrinks 3%, the first time you wash these fabrics they will begin to pull away from each other and not lie flat as a result. (Most quilting patterns advise that you pre-wash your fabrics so that you can start your project with the shrinking already realized).
2. Different fabrics have different softness or smoothness when you glide your hand across them. For my very first quilt I had a variety of lovely warm colours and needed just one more to make the design work. I loved a bed sheet that I already owned that fit the colour palette perfectly and settled on using it. The bed sheet had a little bit of polyester in it which didn’t seem to affect its colour. It wasn’t 'til after I had sewn my quilt top together that I ran my hand over the joined fabrics appreciating my hard work and learned a valuable lesson. The cottons were so, so soft and smooth until my hand hit that little piece that was from the bed sheet. It was rough and inconsistent and unpleasant. Because multiple washings tend to soften cotton, all the fabrics had become delightfully soft to the touch except this one colour. Sigh. I still own that little sampler quilt with its profound lesson for me and the sheet pieces still are rough compared to the cotton. I have a girlfriend who makes denim quilts and uses denim weight throughout. If you want to use an old fabric, find a matching weight for the rest of your fabrics so there is consistency which adds joy to your work that can be enjoyed for a long period of time.
If you are wanting to make a quilt to remember someone special see my recommendations under FAQ's titled, If I want to make a Memory Quilt with old fabrics what should I consider?
This is a good question and one that should be addressed before you start.
To attain a crinkly vintage looking quilt from the start. Do not prewash your fabric to allow the fabric to shrink in its first wash after you have made it into a quilt. For an optimum crinkle look, include 100% cotton batting to sandwich your quilt. This will also add some shrinkage to your project and comes out of the dryer with a very soft feel.
To attain a smooth, non-crinkly quilt. This is often the desire when quilters want a smooth modern look on their beds or using the quilt as an art piece to hang on a wall or if one is sewing for a competition.
For an optimum flat quilt meant for a bed incorporate the following: (this is not a conclusive list and may not fully achieve your goal but it is a start.)
Prewash your fabric followed by using a quilting or spray *starch and press with your iron before cutting your pieces.
Prewash your batting or use 100% poly batting. Be aware that even a cotton/polyester blend batting will shrink some so be aware that this also should be prewashed.
Prewash your backing although you do not need to starch if you are not piecing.
Do not prewash and do not wash your project if it is **art.
* Spray starch helps stiffen your fabric to stabilize the fibres and help in cutting and sewing of your fabric to be more concise.
** If an art piece is your desired result, consider using a wool batting as most cotton and polyester battings retain their fold marks after being stored for a time. Wool batting has more grace because it has a different memory.
A quilt label is basically signing your beautiful work as quilts are often originals with your personal touch.
Most quilters add a small patch of light-colored solid fabric on the back of their quilt (often in a corner) to create a Quilt Label. Use a pen that will not fade or dissolve in water to write these details. Do not use a sharpie… it will bleed once washed. My recommendation is any of the archival fine tipped pens such as Micron or Faber-Castell brands.
Suggestions on some things you might want to include on a Quilt Label:
- The maker’s name often paired with a salutation such as, ‘Lovingly made by, NAME’
- The date month/year
- The reason. 'For NAME' or I like 'A cozy hug for NAME'
- In some circumstances some quilters will add the fabric content or type used if applicable.
- Some quilters include a poem, a small drawing like a flower and others prefer to stitch their information rather than use a pen.
- Be personal and be creative.
You can make garments with quilting cotton. Here are a couple of things that are good to note.
1. Quilting cotton is good to use in a garment that the pattern maker recommends a medium weight cotton.
2. Quilting cotton is like regular cotton and does wrinkle but ages very nicely and gets softer with continued washes which is a plus.
3. When using a pattern for a garment be sure to note the width of fabric required. Most quilting cotton comes on bolts 44/45” wide. (Except for quilting cotton that is listed as a 'Backing' and can be up to 108" wide).
4. The attraction to using quilting cottons for garments is that you will find a wide variety of modern prints and colours.
If you love a quilting cotton print but cannot find it in the proper weight look to companies like Spoonflower who create fabrics from independent contemporary designers and sell a specific pattern in a wide variety of fabric types such as voile, cotton, fleece etc. Very fun to browse their options.
When considering a quilting cotton to make a small bag or purse consider adding a heavier weight interfacing such as PELLON809 or Decovil Light to add structure and strength to your fabric. Bag making is becoming more popular and quilting manufacturers have started making a very small portion of their beautiful quilting fabric designs also in a canvas fabric. Search ‘canvas’ on our site to see what we carry.
Fabric designers have become a very influential entity in the quilting community and manufacturers have followed suit by having a variety of designers create a series with a given name. This series most often includes a family of prints that all go together to make a harmonious project. For whatever reason there most often is a one-time printing of this family of fabrics and the next year a whole new series of fabric designs come out. For this reason, when you find a fabric you love, be sure to buy enough to complete your project. If you find yourself needing an out-of-print fabric go to Etsy and Ebay. Sometimes you will find a seller who is still selling an old print. Worth a try! There have been times when a very popular fabric is re-printed as in an Anniversary edition. Kaffe Fassett fabric is a good example of this.
There is a large variety of prints in the quilting cotton world is why it is fun for quilters to ‘create’ their own fabrics by mixing and matching. These cotton designs are printed directly onto the woven fabric which is why the design may come slightly off-grain. When a pattern lists as it is a ‘woven’ in the title or description such as, LOW VOLUME WOVENS BY JEN KINGWELL FOR MODA, this indicates that this fabric is woven instead of printed and is most often linear such as stripes and checks. You can more readily assume that the design (woven right into the fabric) will be more consistent with the grain.
What is canvas? Canvas is a lovely fabric for the domestic sewer but is heavier and more durable than quilting cotton. It comes as 100% cotton and sometimes may be a mix of 70% cotton with 30% linen. Items like cross body bags, totes, cushions are great options for a canvas fabric.
Is it washable? Yes
Shrinkage? All cottons shrink and this includes canvas. Big Duck Canvas recommends this:
"When working with the standard 10 oz canvas in natural (no dye) expect it to shrink 12-15% after it's washed and dried. The dyed canvas shrinks a little less, usually about 8%." From Big Duck Canvas blog.
Can I use my domestic machine to sew canvas? Yes! But first, research what type of other tools you will need to be successful. Needle size: denim needles or try a large Universal needle. Thread: polyester heavy-duty thread although I have used regular polyester thread. If using heavy thread be aware that your bobbin probably will not like this. Consider using a matching regular polyester thread in your bobbin. Go slow: When encountering greater thicknesses go slow or use a helper like a *wedge. When coming up to a very thick part of your seam stop sewing but still keep your needle in the down position so your fabric does not shift. Lift the foot leaver, slide the little wedge in from the back and butt it up to the back of the needle. Bring your sewing foot down and take a look. The sewing foot should be lying flat on the wedge even in height with the thickness of your thick seam. Proceed sewing your seam going very slow ‘til you have gone through the thick seam. Remove the wedge and continue sewing.
* wedge: Some machines come with a triple thickness polymer accessory. Bernina calls theirs a "Height compensating tool" also known as a 'hump jumper'. Theirs has 3 thickness options. If you do not have one look around for something small, hard and smooth like a small quilting ruler. If one does not raise the height sufficiently consider adding another although this will become a bit precarious. There are various Height Compensation tools on the market. A worthwhile investment.
If you are wanting to honor someone by making a quilt from fabrics that originate from a loved one, I would consider doing this:
- Gather all the fabric candidates in one place.
- From these fabrics select only the ones that resonate with you or have harmony with each other. You do not need to use everything donated to create something memorable. Choose only those that will create a harmonious and pleasing result.
- If possible, choose fabrics that are most similar in weight, body and weave.
- If you absolutely want to use fabrics that are thinner in body and weight than the majority of your fabrics, consider using an interfacing on the softer, thinner fabrics to give them more durability.
- Make sure every fabric you will be using is prewashed. Some fabrics might have had ‘dry-clean only’ listed for their previous care. You will most likely be using small pieces of fabric to patchwork your quilt and washing sensitive fabrics at this point probably will not make too much of a difference here as it would have for the original garment. Either way, it doesn’t hurt to try prewashing a small section to see how it responds. The reason you must prewash everything in this situation is to be sure there will be no differing shrinkage after you've sewn your quilt together. If there is, they will pull away from each other and cause tears. This can happen even if the quilting done later is quite dense.
- Cut out your shapes to make the quilt. Apply interfacing where necessary and then begin assembling your Memory Quilt.
- Do not forget to sign your work. Most quilters add a small patch of light-colored solid fabric on the back of their quilt (often in a corner) to create a Quilt Label. Use a pen that will not fade or dissolve in water to write these details. Do not use a sharpie… it will bleed once washed. My recommendation is any of the archival fine tipped pens such as Micron or Faber-Castell brands.
Suggestions on some things you might want to include in a Quilt Label:
- The maker’s name often paired with a salutation such as, ‘Lovingly made by, NAME’
- The date month/year
- The reason. 'For NAME' or I like 'A cozy hug for NAME'
- Some quilters include a poem, a small drawing like a flower and others prefer to stitch their information rather than use a pen.
- Be personal and be creative.
*NOTE. If you want this to be a crinkly quilt, use batting that is either 100% cotton for maximum crinkle, or batting that is 80% cotton / 20% polyester. Do not prewash.